England

The construction of a fatty melt.

Starting of with a grilled cheese sandwich for each fatty melt, then adding the fried eggs and the patty. We added tops too, but we had to wait for them to finish toasting.

Porcupine meatballs frying.

We made about a dozen porcupine meatballs — enough for four sandwiches and a snack.

Fatty Melts and Porcupine Meatball Subs

When she isn’t work­ing, Kara reads food blogs. She reads them for hours at a time. She never rarely makes any of the food she reads about. But a few weeks ago, when she read about fatty melts on Se­ri­ous Eats, a so­cial in­for­ma­tion net­work for food­ies, they sounded crazy enough that I asked her for the link to the recipe page so that I could send it to my youngest brother, Ben­jamin. As I ex­pected, he went off‐the‐walls crazy about it (he’s eas­ily ex­citable, even for an almost‐eleven‐year‐old), and the more I thought about it, the more it did seem like a good idea. So I pledged that Kara and I would make fatty melts and tell him all about them, know­ing full well the im­prob­a­bil­ity that he would ever con­vince our fa­ther to make such a dish.

Here’s why. To make a fatty melt, one takes a ham­burger (Adam Kuban, the orig­i­na­tor of the recipe, rec­om­mends a quarter‐pounder.) and sand­wiches it be­tween two grilled cheese sand­wiches. That means one uses four slices of bread, two or four slices of cheese, and a quarter‐pound of ground beef, plus ac­ces­sories like onion, tomato, and let­tuce. My fa­ther, a man of wis­dom and econ­omy, never even makes a ham­burger patty with­out first hav­ing blended the beef with rolled oats. To him, the fatty melt would be a mere un­healthy ex­trav­a­gance, and un­palat­able to boot.

When we made fatty melts two weeks ago, we ended up chang­ing the recipe a bit. First, we de­cided to make cheesy west­ern fatty melts. This means that we added a fried egg on top of the burger. Nor­mally, one adds cheese as well, but since there was al­ready cheese in the grilled cheese sand­wiches, we de­cided to skip that step. Sec­ond, the meat we had avail­able was a blend of ground mut­ton and lamb which we had found on sale at Tesco. This re­placed the beef. Third, we didn’t use any­where near a quarter‐pound of meat. There may have been a quarter‐pound be­tween the two sand­wiches we made, but all the la­bels were in met­ric, so we aren’t sure. Last of all, we added jalapeños to one of the grilled cheese sand­wiches on each burger. This was to give the burger a lit­tle “kick”, but in the end, there was so much fla­vor, I didn’t re­ally no­tice them.

When we ate our fatty melts, they were so big that af­ter the first few bites we ended up eat­ing the fried egg on one sand­wich, and the burger patty on the other sand­wich. Nonethe­less, we were able to give Ben­jamin a very fa­vor­able re­port, and we plan to eat them again this com­ing week.

With the meat left over from the fatty melts, we de­cided to make meat­ball subs. But not just any meat­ball would do. We de­cided to make por­cu­pine meat­balls by adding cooked rice to the bread­crumbs, mut­ton, egg, and sea­son­ings. Af­ter Kara mixed them up, she shaped them, and we browned them in a skil­let. Kara says next time, some­body else (pre­sum­ably that means me) has to mix and shape them and deal with raw meat un­der the fin­ger­nails. We let the meat­balls sim­mer for a while in some tomato sauce, and then placed them on top of toasted sub rolls pre­pared with olive oil, salt, pep­per, sea­son­ing, and grated cheese. They went back into the oven to melt the cheese and get the sauce pip­ing hot. It turned out to be an ex­cel­lent way to use left­over meat.

16 November 2008

Andrew Shields